Counting the months... and an afternoon in Belgium

Last weekend, I took a little afternoon trip to Tournai,  the oldest city in Belgium. It was hot (73F, which is too hot for this Seattleite), not a cloud in the sky, and only a 20 minute train ride across the border. I strolled around the town for a few hours by myself before sitting down to enjoy a delicious cone of house-made Speculoos ice cream in the La Grand-Place. Aside from the first two trains back to Lille being cancelled, it was a lovely afternoon! 

The Belfry and the Grand-Place 

Notre Dame de Tournai Cathedral

Flags on Cloth Hall (the red, yellow, and black one is the Belgian flag)

Le Pont des Trous on the Scheldt River

I love anything Speculoos... of course I had to try the ice cream! 

Tons of other people had the same idea, since the Glace Speculoos was the most empty of all the flavors!

In other exciting news, I arrived in Amsterdam exactly seven months ago today. That sounds like ages ago! But even more exciting news is that I have my (stand-by) ticket booked home! And the date? July 13th. I find it kind of poetic that I'll spend exactly ten months, to the day, in Europe. Major thanks to my amazing god-dad for hooking both my mom and I up with our stand-by tickets! Milles mercis, Uncle Bruce! It's bittersweet to realize that the end is near... Luckily, as close as it seems, three months is still a long ways away. For assistants on a seven-month contract, this is their last week of teaching and many of them take off soon. I know these next few months are going to fly by... seven have already. 

One more day before vacation! I definitely need it, too!
Bisous,
-kelse

Not the most eventful week

The past week has been pretty good - just not incredibly eventful. I kept it low key most of the week but did make it out a few times to check out les soldes. You see, in France, sales are regulated and the dates are fixed. There are summer and winter sales which start on the second Wednesday of January and the third Wednesday of June and last for five weeks. It's a pretty big deal here; malls are open for the first few Sundays, there are shuttles available, and signs everywhere. (Stores can have promotions outside of these dates, but those, too, are regulated.) In college, I remember watching a news segment about the first day of les soldes in Paris which resembled news clips outside Wal-Mart on Black Friday - trampling and all. I did pick up a few things for myself, though I didn't dare try the sales on the first day. Really, anyone who knows me knows that I shop rather exclusively at Nordstrom and enjoy shopping their sales and their sales only...

My collègue Sylvia recommended that I go to L'Usine, which is an outlet mall near our school. On top of the already low prices, they take extreme discounts for the sale. This was perfect for me because I HATE outlet malls. I never find anything and always regret going. So I went on Friday afternoon with 100 euro in my wallet, sent from my Uncle Bruce. Why do I go to outlets if I loathe them? Because it gets me my shopping fix without impacting my wallet. In fact, I earned 10 euro when I bought a pair of jeans (the only thing I bought that day). They cost 19 euro and I handed la caissière my bill, she did the math to make change, I confirmed that my change should be 81 euro... and she handed me 91 euro! That was easy! On my way home, I saw un tigre being pulled behind a car in a cage. Yes, a real tiger; the circus is in town.

My week also included a few sweet treats, like une tarte au chocolat, croissants, dinner and a movie... but some things I've got to keep to myself! ; )

Bisous,
-kelse

Les soldes - the sales
Un(e) collègue - colleague
L'Usine - the factory
Le caissier/ la caissière - the cashier
Un tigre - a tiger
Une tarte au chocolat - a chocolate pie

King for a day

In France, there is a long-standing tradition to eat une galette des Rois on or around le 6 janvier or the first Sunday of the year (apparently the tradition dates back to the 14th century). The galette des Rois is a flaky puff pastry filled traditionally with frangipane (an almond pastry cream) but also commonly available with apple filling. Baked into the cake is a little trinket called la fève. Traditionally, the cake is cut so that everybody has a slice, leaving an extra slice for the first person who comes to visit. The youngest person present gets underneath the table and decides blindly who gets which piece of the cake; this is to ensure fairness. The person who finds la fève in their dessert is crowned as King for the day! 

This weekend, Séb brought some friends back to the apartment along with a store-bought, apple filled, Toy Story 3-themed galette des Rois. Though Ali was the youngest (finally it wasn't me), Ashley kindly demonstrated how she should get under the table to divvy out the cake. It was funny to watch her wriggle her way under the tiny table. Ali gave it a shot but we decided to skip that part of the tradition (it's no fun using the dining room table, I guess). Séb was very fittingly crowned King for the night after finding the figurine in his slice. I thought the galette was delicious - flaky, buttery, with apple filling? How could you go wrong? I bet it'd be delicious with French vanilla ice cream! 

Not the easiest fit, is it, Ashley? 

La galette des Rois

Séb le Roi! 

Despite some very disrupting shenanigans from our other roommate, we spent the night teaching Séb the wonders of Apples to Apples, which Ashley brought back for him after Christmas. It was funny to explain to him what some of the cards meant. Rush Limbaugh? Chunky? Beanie Babies? The game wasn't nearly as loud and competitive as my family gets when we play it but it was fun. (I love playing with Aunt Tracy and her outbursts of why her card is the clear choice.) It ended up to be a late and interesting night but tasty, as well! 

Regarding the shenanigans, there have been some issues at the apartment that I haven't divulged because I want to keep this a positive place and don't want to worry friends and family at home. There will soon be a major change at the apartment, at which point, I'll explain a few details. 

Bisous, 

-kelse

Une galette des Rois- King's cake

Le 6 janvier - January 6th

La fève - charm or bean (the original baked-in surprise was a bean)

My Thanksgiving Feast

So I may not have had turkey or pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving this year, but I did have a great French meal, good company, and snow! After a long day of work, I met up with my friend at Cafe Oz, the Australian bar in Vieux Lille. I felt terrible for being a half an hour late but I had needed to stop at home to put on extra layers, the bus was slower than usual, and I accidentally took a very non-direct route to get there... But after chatting for a while, we ventured back into the cold and stumbled upon a tucked in little estaminet called Au Vieux de la Vieille. The cozy atmosphere was perfect to warm us right up. There were several things on the menu that looked enticing. Though I do like boudin noir (Sylvia and I were talking about how we both love it today and she invited me over to her house to have it sometime), I was too chicken to order it. 

After wavering back and forth between a few different things, I chose "La célèbre Fricandelle et sa sauce piccalilli accompagnées de purée de pomme de terre maison & salade". The only additional information that th English menu gave was that it was a local sausage. The deciding factor for me was the bold print underneath the description of the dish... "Merci de ne pas torturer les serveurs pour en découvrir la mystérieuse recette, y n'in savtent rin...". For dessert, of course I couldn't decide... If I wasn't having pumpkin pie, I wanted something pretty damn good! Should I get crème brûlée or ice cream or crêpes with rhubarb jam? Finally I asked the waitress for her recommendation and she didn't hesitate to say Mousse au Speculoos. I was sold. It was like gingerbread mousse... and definitely worth the indulgence.

At dinner, we'd ordered a carafe of muscadet wine. But when she brought out dessert, she offered us a free white beer that she had incorrectly thought another table had ordered. I actually thought it was really good. (Yes, Dad, your daughter found a beer that she liked...) Upon leaving the restaurant, the snow was coming down quickly in big flakes. I was thrilled for the snow, but my Australian friend Jim was even more so, as it was his first time seeing snow. We walked back over to Café Oz as we'd told the bartender we would. This bartender was really cool. Nadick was Polish and when he asked me where I was from, his face lit up when I said I was from Seattle. His response was "Yeah! Seattle Supersonics! What a shame... I used to love Gary Payton!" (I had a Gary Payton #20 jersey as a kid.) So, we ordered two "Femantle Doctors" - vodka, cranberry, and grapefruit. Then Nadick accidentally made a Femantle Doctor for someone who'd ordered a different drink, so he gave it to us. If you're keeping score, that's free drink number two. 

As we're sitting and chatting, I was unable to stop Jim from ordering two shots of Jager. (I don't take shots...) Nadick brings out three shot glasses and took a shot with us. When Jim handed him some money, he said they were on the house because he liked us. So that makes free drinks three and four... How does that happen without having connections? After that I called it a night and hopped on a bus back home. In total, it was a very memorable Thanksgiving spent in good company and remembering all that I'm thankful for. First Thanksgiving away from home, first snow, first beer that I enjoyed... I am content and plenty thankful. And now I need to get ready to meet Jim to check out a museum in town! 

Bisous, 

-kelse

boudin noir - blood sausage (vervivorst in Estonian [how's that for random vocabulary?])

"La célèbre Fricandelle et sa sauce piccalilli accompagnées de purée de pomme de terre maison & salade" - "The famous Fricandelle with piccalilli sauce accompanied by house made mashed potatoes and salad"

"Merci de ne pas torturer les serveurs pour en découvrir la mystérieuse recette, y n'in savtent rin" - Thank you for not torturing the servers for the mystery recipe, they know nothing. 

Two month anniversary | Another Delicious Discretion

Today marks the two month anniversary of my departure from the States. I can hardly believe it's been that long. I haven't forgotten about any of you guys yet, so maybe it's not been long enough? (Totally kidding!) What better a way to celebrate than with some French food? Maybe it's just a personal celebration but I need an excuse for eating completely out of character last night. I don't know what got into me... Oh wait, I do... Vodka. 

The night started with un apéro at Aude's apartment, when I politely accepted her offer of a vodka and juice cocktail. Someone who drinks only once in a blue moon should be advised not to drink on an empty stomach. Enter paprika flavored Bugles. Yes, Bugles, the chips I loved as a kid. Paprika flavored things need to catch on more in the states. To say I was drunk would be a slight exaggeration but I had a strong buzz going after a double (which I had to add Citrus Fanta to to dilute). My dad and sorority sisters would be disappointed in me. Now I remember why I stopped drinking... I don't enjoy the taste or the feeling. 

Starving, we arrived at a quaint restaurant in Vieux Lille called La Vieille France. The decorated theme of an old French school house offered a warm and cozy environment for very a very traditional norther French meal. On the back of each of the chairs (the same chairs they used to have in actual schools), were childish insults and the walls were covered in posters, multiplication tables, and maps. 

 Throwing all my food rules out the window (I think for a minute the vodka made me forget), I ordered a highly recommended dish and forgot to ask for vegetables or a salad rather than frites. The menu description is as follows: "Poulet au Maroilles: belle cuisse de poulet cuisinée et gratinée au Maroilles" which is basically a chicken thigh cooked in melted Maroilles cheese. Maroilles cheese a very pungent soft cheese that comes from this region (Nord-Pas-de-Calais); it may be stinky but I actually really like it. We had some at the apartment for a while and it made everything stink. However, in this dish, the flavor isn't as strong. After the plate had been sitting out for a little bit, I started eating just chunks of the cheese that had congealed a little bit. That sounds gross but believe me, it was delicious.

Poulet au Maroilles: belle cuisse de poulet cuisinée et gratinée au Maroilles 

Delicious forkful of Maroilles cheese. 

I was ready to call it a night by this point. But Aude's raves over one dessert in particular had me sold (plus I was thinking of Danielle's encouragement to try more sweet treats). This is a celebration, right? So, "Moelleux au Chocolat Maison avec une boule de glace Côté d'Or" is was - and my god was it heavenly. This piece of heaven came in the form of a still steaming cross between a brownie and molten lava cake (minus the lava) with a cold scoop of chocolate ice cream and whipped cream flanking each side. I savored each tiny bite, taking over a half an hour to destroy it. (This is how I eat anything sweet, in several TINY, slow bites.) 

Moelleux au chocolat maison avec une boule de glace Côté d'Or  

Moist, hot, chocolate heaven. The only thing that could make this better would be melted peanut butter.

That's love. (And sadness that it was all gone). 

By the time I was two bites in, I was ready to burst. But there was no way I wasn't going to finish this baby. If you're at all jealous, you should be. Except for you can revel in the fact that I spent the rest of the night feeling awfully stuffed with a terrible tummy ache. This is why I have food rules for myself and don't drink alcohol. But damn was it worth it! Cheers to two months abroad and several more to go! 
Bisous, 
-kelse


un apéro (un apéritif) - before dinner drink 
Vieux Lille - Old Lille 
La Vieille France - Old France
Une cuisse de poulet - a chicken thigh, drumstick
cuisiné - cooked (the verb is cuisiner means to cook)
gratiné - au gratin (the verb gratiner means to cook au gratin)
Une boule de glace - a bowl or scoop of ice cream

Discrétions Délicieuses: Vacuum Cleaners

You see it all over Stockholm - lime green marzipan. It's on princess cakes and other delicious and eye-catching confections. One that drew my eye over and over again is called Dammsugare or Punschrulle. The name dammsugare literally means "vacuum cleaners", as the cookie was used as a way to use up extra cookie or cake crumbs around the bakery. Like I mentioned before, Swedes have a sweet tooth and their bakeries are full of yummy looking sweet breads, buns, cookies, cakes, and everything else your waistline wants you to avoid. Needless to say, picking just one thing to taste was a difficult. Wouldn't it be great if you could order a sampler with a bite or two of several different things? Yeah, that would be amazing (though I probably wouldn't let myself order it!). So what exactly did I order? Behold this yummy creation: 

On the inside, a mixture of cookie or cake crumbs is mixed with a Swedish liquor called Punsch, butter, and chocolate. It's then rolled in green marzipan and the ends are dipped in melted chocolate. 

If one of these ever crosses your path, devour it! It's delicious and worth every calorie; I slowly savored each tiny bite!

Bisous, 

-kelse

A tasty new tradition - Mes Discrétions Délicieuses

On a daily basis, I eat a rather healthy diet and don't allow room for many indulgences. Before I left, one of my best friends told me to eat a lot of French pastries for her while I'm here. I kind of shrugged it off like, "sure, okay Danielle... I will." But once I got here and saw how delicious they look in the windows and in passing could smell how wonderful they surely taste, I started to think twice. So, I've decided that once every few weeks, I can indulge in what I've decided to call Mes Discrétions Délicieuses. 

My first morning here I had pain au chocolat for breakfast, courtesy of Cody. It was good but definitely not breakfast food. I'll have to revisit this later as a treat. So for my inaugural discretionary treat, I figured there was no better way to start than with something simple and classic. Devinez quoi?

Hint # 1: I got it at the restaurant to the right. (A few friends and I met at the restaurant to the left last week.)

Hint #2: This is the aftermath. My verdict? Doesn't the picture tell you it was divine?
Do you have a guess?

Une Crêpe Nutella!

It was DELICIOUS! I sat down to enjoy it and before I knew it, it was all gone! Let me tell you, I miss peanut butter and almond butter like nobody's business (my oatmeal just isn't the same!), but NUTELLA! I do believe that Nutella and I are fast becoming close friends. But I need to keep that friendship at a moderate distance! We don't need to become best friends.... I have those already! But I did have a little bit of Nutella to go along with the most delicious Belgian apple I had today. Think Honeycrisp Apple... Délicieuse! And if you don't know what Nutella or Honeycrisp apples are, then you've been living under a rock! (And no, the Nutella in the States is nothing compared to it here!)

Bon appétit! 

-kelse

Mes discrétions délicieuses - my delicious discretions 

Pain au chocolat - bread with chocolate (think chocolate filled croissant)

Devinez quoi? - Guess what?

Une Crêpe Nutella - a crêpe with chocolate/hazelnut spread